Making a slip-on type front sight.

[Mack The Knife]

Since the scope on my HW97K has departed for airgun Valhala, I decided to make a front sight for this air-rifle. For those who are unaware this air-rifle does not have a provision for open sights. It comes with a muzzle weight in front which will explain the large diameter of the slip-on tube.

Fortunately, the rear sight has been catered for by slipping the rear sight of a HW77K onto the dovetails.

Here's a pic of the drawing. Suggestions welcome.



Mack The Knife

[camerags]

Rusty - the top of your front sight will be about 20mm above the barrel. On a open sighted air rifle, the front and rear sight sit almost on the same plane. In this case you are building a sight that will ride on top the muzzle weight bulge. It's worth the try - just hope you dont run out of clicks on the rear sight...Before you take off to the machine shop, slide on the rear sight and try zeroing with a plastic front sight blade of the same height thats held to the muzzle weight with epoxy or similar material

[Mack The Knife]

Before you take off to the machine shop, slide on the rear sight and try zeroing with a plastic front sight blade of the same height thats held to the muzzle weight with epoxy or similar material.

Your wish is my command, sire.

Here's a rough prototype. Filed so that it hits centre using a 6 o'clock hold on an ISSF 10-metre target.

just hope you dont run out of clicks on the rear sight...

After the above mentioned setting, I still have 20 clicks worth of elevation.

You know, you really should have more faith in me....

Just kidding. Thanks for the suggestions and I am open to anything else others have to say.

Mack The Knife

[Mark]

Here is what I would do to make a classy sight-

As suggested, glue a plastic blade to the muzzle weight and start filing it down until you are comfortable with the elevation.

Measure the height

Make a wax positive and have it cast in brass, it will look a LOT cooler than a steel one IMHO.

I'd go something like this, but to each his own style:

To make it, you can buy wax sheets and rods in square & round around here, I am sure the art supply stores there have them as well.

You can stick the wax right on your gun and make it that way, then carefully slip it off, maybe with some gentle heat on the barrel.

[camerags]

Rusty-First you show us a drawing done to your standards. Then you show us a prototype. No I never under estimate you all right, just that you know what to do next Maybe after you have zeroed with the proto, you can take the bone handle off an old knife, cut a slot in the front sight blade, and french the filed bone in, for a white tipped sight..

My case rests......

[Mack The Knife]

Hi Mark,

I like the simpler, lesser over-engineered lines of your design but it would mean having a post 13 mm high. Wouldn't that be a bit too high?

You have shown the grub/set screws coming from the bottom. What wall thickness did you have in mind for the slip on tube? If it is 2mm as shown, would that be sufficient?

The reason I had added the ramp was to reduce the post height, get a few more threads for the screws to hold onto and mill grooves parallel to the barrel so that I can use a slip-on front sight hood. I haven't shown this in the drawing - probably do it at a later date.

I did think of using brass but not casting it. Don't know anyone who does this and really not to keen to go searching for one.

Thanks.

Mack The Knife

[camerags]

Rusty- when you have finally got your act together, drill a couple of 'depressions' where the grub screws mate on the muzzle weight - else with the recoil that chewed up your scope, you'll find the entire front sight hoopla creeping backwards with every shot. Like what happened to me when my I took the barrel shroud off my Diana 48/52

[Mack The Knife]

Maybe after you have zeroed with the proto, you can take the bone handle off an old knife, cut a slot in the front sight blade, and french the filed bone in, for a white tipped sight..

Hi Rags,

I get your drift and may try it with colour first. Not sure if it will suit my bad eyesight and if it's really necessary for daylight shooting. Chances are it will come off as soon as I get another scope.

Keep that thinking cap on.

Mack The Knife

[Mack The Knife]

Rusty- when you have finally got your act together, drill a couple of 'depressions' where the grub screws mate on the muzzle weight - else with the recoil that chewed up your scope, you'll find the entire front sight hoopla creeping backwards with every shot.

Rags,

Already catered for that with the front stop on the tube. Will consider drilling a depression if the tube turns.

Mack The Knife

[Grumpy]

Mack The Knife, that`s really impressive. If you want the blade to have rather higher visibility just polish the rear of the sight blade back to bare metal and borrow the wifes` nail varnish. The combination of polished steel with the translucent varnish is quite effective. You can experiment with the colour.

[Mack The Knife]

Thanks Grumpy but how would you refine the design? I like the lightness of Mark's design but am a bit uncertain about a 13mm high post. Your take on this please?

If you have any ideas, just sketch it out, take a pic and e-mail it to me. I will host it here for you.

That nail varnish tip sounds good. Never thought of that. Does it adhere to metal well? In the sense, that after the days shooting when the oily rag comes out, will it remove the paint? I also wonder how effective it will be with the Sun at my back. I am refering to glare, ofcourse. (Edit: Perhaps a matt lacquer would do the trick. Any particular colours I should be considering?)

I am the sort who soots the open sights so as to prevent glare.

Please keep the suggestions coming. I was going to have it fabricated tomorrow but will wait until Monday at the very least.

Thanks all.

Mack The Knife

[Mark]

Some refinements


A couple of hints- no matter where you put the set screws, put a piece of lead shot under the screw and it will not mar the barrel. Put a dab of glue in the band opposite the screw, it will help hold in place and will release easily with some heat when you are ready to remove it. If you don't have a #8 shot laying around just use a little piece of solder, it doesn't have to be ball shaped.

Here is another way of making the sight, barrel bands can be made this way and riveted together but a screw will make removal easier.



You are looking at the front of the sight this way, sorry for the crappy drawing!

[Grumpy]

There`s Mark apologising for his `crappy` drawing whilst I`ve never figured out how to draw on a PC ! A 13mm blade seems very high - I`d prefer something a little lower - even if it means raising the height of the base a little. I like blades that slope from front to back somewhat as if the top of the blade is parallel with the base you often can`t see if you have the gun mounted incorrectly so that you are looking along the top surface somewhat which would mean that you shoot high. I`ve seen a couple of target rifles that just used a plain post - screw in I presume. Not pretty but very practical.
As regards the nail varnish I`ve found that the most desirable colour varies depending on light conditions. The opaque `pearl` silver/white is very good in low light. Red/orange is good in overcast conditions. The `pearl` finishes generally are better than the solid colours. Sometimes plain white enamel paint is better than anything and matt black is invariably best if shooting at a white or pale target. Nail varnish adheres quite well providing that the surface upon which it is painted is completely grease free. It can be removed easily enough by flaking it off.
Perhaps you can come up with a system in which you can easily swap blades ?
Most of this applies to pistol and clay shooting - I used to change the front `bead` ( the coloured, translucent rod type ) on my guns depending on the lighting conditions when I shot a lot of competitive clays and even the colour of the lenses in my shooting glasses.
I haven`t used an air rifle for years although there are a couple at the back of the gun `cupboard`. I don`t use open sghts with my rifles as I always use a scope - what suits is what you`re used to I suppose. Iron sights cover an awful lot of an animal at 100 yards - even something as large as a deer - and progressively more thereafter. Something that isn`t relevent with an air rifle.

[sat]

(Edit: Perhaps a matt lacquer would do the trick. Any particular colours I should be considering?)

Rusty,

How about pink?

sat

[Mack The Knife]

Piss off, lambu!