And I have no idea about what stocks are, except for the ones on guns!
I'll send you a copy of the instructions for your mount with your stuff.
In addition, here are the steps from setting the mount on the gun to zeroing the scope (I originally wrote this for Model 54 generally- might vary a bit in your case).
(A) Setting the Mount on gun-
Angle the mount to point downwards. In your case, where the rings are independent, turn the rear ring 2-1/2 to 3 turns up, and the front ring 1 to 1-1/2 turns up to allow it to angle and align with the rear ring when you fix the scope on it. FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTION IN THE BROCHURE TO AVOID DAMAGING THE SPLIT RING. In case you try to zero the scope and realize the point of aim and point of pellet impact are apart more than 3-4 inches at distance of 10 yards, you will need to remove the scope and turn the rings accordingly.
In mounts where both rings are connected, angle can be changed to point lower or higher by loosening or tightening the adjustment nut at the bottom of the mount. Instructions for this are in the mount packing. Moreover, when turning the adjustment nut at the bottom of the mount, you can visually see the angle of the rings change in relation to the mounts base. This helps to make out where the scope will point in relation to the barrel.
Steps for mounting on gun are -
1. Remove the top halves of the rings.
2. Loosen the side clamp nuts (four), slide the mount on the gun's rail, and bring the recoil pin at the bottom of the mount to fit in corresponding hole in the gun's mounting rail. The pin should be pulled against the rear of the hole- ie. toward the rear of the gun.
3. If the pin is extending too far down, preventing the mount's side clamp from aligning with the rail, rest the mount upside down on a folded cloth on a flat surface, and tap the pin gently into the mount. The pin should not be tapped so deep that it does not touch the rail's hole- some of it should stick out from the mount's bottom.
4. Once pin is set against the hole's rear, tighten the mount on the rail. All four screws should be tightened hard- outer two first, then inner two.
5. Tap the pin from the upper side, so that it touches the bottom of the rail, preventing slippage, and allowing full contact with the rear of the hole.
The mount is now set. The top of the rings should not be screwed on yet, but left aside.
(B) Preparing the scope and mounting it. Turn the magnification to minimum, and focus to lowest (10-15 metres)
1. First, you need to bring the reticle to the center of the scope. A rough method of doing this is to count the total number of click that the knobs will turn, and set them halfway. The correct method to center the reticle is complicated (using a cardboard box with notches cut in it to turn the scope a full circle etc), so if you want to get absolute precision, let me know and I will detail the process.
2. Place the scope on the mount, and screw on the ring tops. Tighten just enough so that the scope can slide and turn easily when you pull/turn, but not on its own with gravity.
3. Look through the scope by bringing the gun to your shoulder, and push/pull the scope so that the sight is full without black edges showing in the view. Eye relief from the scope should be comfortable. REMEMBER, THIS GUN (Diana 54, not 350) MOVES BACK ON FIRING. It is better to err moving the scope forward, not backwards, or it may hit your eyebrow.
4. Now to ensure the reticle is vertical. Hang a weight from a thread about 10-15 metres from the gun.
5. Place spirit level on the gun- any flat surface- where the safety catch is, or the open breech (for side levers) will do. The rear sight top is fine, or the sight can be removed to give a flat surface. Keep the gun level sideways (it should not tilt/cant left or right), using the spirit level.
6. Align the vertical of the reticle with the string. Tighten the rings fully, without overtightening. Ensure that the gap between the top and bottom halves of the rings are equal. Tighten nuts in an 'X' pattern- top left first, bottom right next, bottom left next, then top right, or a similar pattern.
(C) Zeroing the scope.
1. For Side lever guns- If you have a laser dot (shooting or keychain type) cock the gun. Switch the laser on and fit it in the breech, holding with the piston head, so that a dot is projected through the barrel on the target/wall 10 yards away. Look through the scope. If the reticle's point where the thin line meets the thick (in Duplex reticles) is within 3-4 inches of the dot, simply turn the knobs and align the point to the dot.
Ensure safety. Fire a shot with the gun rested. The pellet may hit slightly over or below the reticle's point. Make final adjustment with the elevation knob.
2. If you do not have a laser, you need to shoot a pellet from the gun (rested on bench- Diana 54 does not recoil before pellet leaves the gun) at a paper target. Ensure safety.
3. Bring the gun (which would have moved on firing) to same position where the reticle point aims at the target. (For recoiling guns- Mod350, after firing from shoulder, rest the gun on a bench where you shot from, and continue with the following process). Without allowing the gun to move now, turn the knobs to bring the point to the hole of the pellet on target. The scope is now set. Fire another shot to confirm.
4. If the gun is aiming outside 3-4 inches from the point of reticle up or down, you need to remove the mount from the gun (scope from the mount in case of seperate rings mount), and follow the mounts instructions to make corrections. Avoid using the mounts windage adjustment- they should remain centered unless the pellet is hitting more than 4-6 inches to left or right (which is not likely). For adjustment in windage of less than this, use the scopes adjustment. But for adjustment of over 3-4 or so inches in elevation, adjust the mount a bit to bring the difference within 3-4 inches aproximately. Use your judgement here- the scopes knobs should not be turned so much that they are nearing their adjustment range, in which case you could use the mounts windage adjustment.
5. The scope is now set for shooting at 10 yards using the reticle's lowest aiming point available- where the thin line from the center meets the lower post. The center of the cross will be the point of impact at about 40 yards, depending on which pellet you use. Confirm by trial and error. For longer distances, you need to experiment and find the point on the cross/magnification- generally, the pellet will start falling after 40 yards. Between 10 yards and 40 yards, increasing the magnification will move the lower aiming point (where the thin line meets the thick) up. So at 25 yards, you may find that aiming point true at 5-6X magnification. Experiment and confirm. Remember that except for the center intersection of the reticle, the other points on the reticle will move as you change the magnification- you can see this happening through the scope. This fact can be used to our advantage as given below.
6. It is important to bear in mind that changing the magnification will change the point of impact, except for the center of the cross. For the rest of the distances, you need to write down the distance, magnification and point on the reticle that holds true. At the end of the process, you will have a table that gives you the distance from 10-100 yards, point of reticle to use (lower point where thin line meets thich, center intersection, upper point where thin line meets thick, intersection again and lower point again), and the magnification to use. Normally, shooters paste this table to the side of the stock's butt with adhesive tape for easy reference.
I hope this helps. In case of doubts anywhere, please feel free to contact me.
Last edited by ai on Sun Aug 10, 2008 12:40 pm, edited 1 time in total.