Regarding Bluing of Brand New Webley and Scott 0.32 Revolver.

[ashrafi1]

I asked one gun smith he told me bluing for my revolver would cost Rs.60000 I felt it's too high,can some one pls throw light on this.

For 60k you can get second hand .32 revolver in good condition with bluing intact.

In Punjab the price for bluing is around 7k-8k.

Thank you sir for your information.

I thought as much.

[marksman]

One can blame faulty curing process post bluing, imho.

Marksman

[Pratipalsinh Jadeja]

mr NK, how much it costs to you?
can you suggest a good dealer in delhi pls.

I asked one gun smith he told me bluing for my revolver would cost Rs.60000 I felt it's too high,can some one pls throw light on this.

60K?????
He/She is definitely trying to earn a quick buck, A friend of mine did Mark 2 Pistol for 10k in Gujarat where weapon ownership is relatively low, the gunsmith was a thoroughbred and an expert and so was charging some 2-3k more but a decent bluing is anywhere near 7-12k for weapon.

[Rajput93]

mr NK, how much it costs to you?
can you suggest a good dealer in delhi pls.

I asked one gun smith he told me bluing for my revolver would cost Rs.60000 I felt it's too high,can some one pls throw light on this.

In Gujarat you can get it done for 10 to 12 k.

[nicky4968]

Greetings from Littleton, Colorado USA

I have been a firearm owner and user for 60 years.

I wish to advise you that WD 40 is not good for lubricating or protecting firearms. It leaves a varnish-like gummy residue.

While too light for lubricating, common sewing machine oil will preserve your firearm’s finish better.

If you have no gun lubricants available, I recommend 30 weight non detergent motor oil. (It worked for John Moses Browning.) Remember how you salt your stew: Just because a little bit is good, a heaping amount is definitely not.

I am eagerly awaiting the new .32 breaktop pistol’s availability here in the USA. If anyone has something to share about the pistol, please let me know.


Regards,

Nicholas A. Francis

[timmy]

nicky is absolutely right on in his observations!

A story:

Almost 20 years ago, I was in college. (Even though my gun use mirrors Nicky's with regard to age.) One of my lab partners was a veteran of Afghanistan and a multi-tour veteran from Iraq. The news of the day at this time was of a US Army convoy that took a wrong turn and ended up in a hailstorm of unfriendly fire in an Iraqi city and most had their weapons jam. This convoy consisted of manly National Guard units (not Regular Army and not even Reserve Army). My partner told me that the problem with these troops is that they had not maintained their weapons (AR style rifles) in the very dusty desert environment and the shortages caused by the bungled deployment meant that the proper lubricants weren't available. These troops had used WD 40 for maintaining their weapons, and WD 40 attracted every bit of dust for 100 kilometers around the jam their weapons!

Later in Lab I learned that WD 40 consisted mainly of hexane, which displaces moisture and cleans, and the lubricant component is some kind of fish oil. That oil will attract a lot of dust.

Nicky's suggestion of motor oil is fine. I prefer Automatic Transmission Fluid, which is a synthetic and doesn't tend to thicken so much in the cold. It also works well on defeating rust and keeps aluminum from galling when it's in contact with steel -- which, after all, is what it's designed for. But if motor oil is what you have, by all means use it instead of WD 40. Save that for something else, but keep it away from guns!