Help required in restoring old air rifle

[fantumfan2003]

Yes indeed it is ...since it was'nt moving I wa'nt sure....


Thanks

the other screw u r referring in the picture seems to me a trigger setting screw,...
sanjiv

[fantumfan2003]

Hi Rustom

I am having difficulty in removing the screw on the left hand side abovethe trigger. Its either too tight or I am not using the right tool. I am using a flat head bit screw driver (commonly available as a set) yellow handle with two extensions to give it length. Am I doing the right thing or do I need one of those big long flat screw drivers ?

Also the rod inside the stock (which is screwed in to the rear metal portion of the gun ) is also tight. Since I can see threads I believe its removable. Is that the case or am I wrong about that ?

Please help.

Thanks

Manish

[fantumfan2003]

Used 150 grade emery paper on the barrel over the weekend and found a lot of pitting allover. Its like almost some form of intricate artwork in its own right...Also its very difficult to get into the nooks and crannies with emery paper.

So was wondering if I can get the rusting removed altogether with electrolysis. Would that be safe ?

The screw above the trigger is like " I ain't gonna move"

So I am not doing anything adventurous here....May be spray wd40 or zorik 88 , leave it overnight and go to a workshop and ask them to try with a big flat screw driver which I dont have.

Also meeting Dr. Shirsta today evening and will try and validate that with him.

Will try to see if I can get the Hinge pin from Magnum today aftertnoon.

Manish

When you remove the rust, you will have pitting underneath which will require polishing, so I would suggest you are not that much worse off simply starting to polish it now with emery cloth or sandpaper. If you want to try a chemical, go to a store that sells industrial cleaning supplies and get a toilet bowl cleaner that claims to be extra effective in removing rust stains.


I do not know what your grit system is over there, here I would start off with a 100 or 120 grit, and when it was polished go to a 220 grit and leave it at that, then apply whatever finish you desire. When you get to that point we can discuss what your options are.

I suspect you will need to replace the leather cup washer, but Mack The Knife is the expert on that.

It is a very classic air rifle! I am looking forward to your project and remember to post pictures!

[fantumfan2003]

I tried something different with Dr. Fixit Rust Remover (Its a Pidilite product) and got very good results.
I dunked the small parts in it from 30 minutes to 2 hrs and look at them now....



All rust gone and they have a rough grey finish.

I talked to the doc about dis-assembling the cylinder and trigger assembly and he has given me proper instructions. But no joy. Its very very tight .....

Will keep you posted as I mkae progress.......

[Mack The Knife]

Manish, it's always better to use hollow ground bits as they are parallel sided and there is less chance of burring the screw head.

I am unable to answer your other questions as I have not worked on this rifle. It belongs to someone else.

[fantumfan2003]

Thanks for the tip. Will try that. I did'nt know it was'nt yours.

Regarding cleaning the bore....

I am dipping it in Dr. Fix Rust Remover. Will I need to use something else as well ? Home made Ed's Red or something else ?

Manish

Manish, it's always better to use hollow ground bits as they are parallel sided and there is less chance of burring the screw head.

I am unable to answer your other questions as I have not worked on this rifle. It belongs to someone else.

[Mack The Knife]

Without seeing the bore it is difficult to comment. Why don't you it in the rust remover you mentioned and then report back. It may need scrubbing out at some point.

BTW, how strong is this rust remover? If it is very potent, then it would be a good idea to wash out the bore and keep inspecting it at regular intervals. Does it mention anything about disolving the rust remover with water or anything about time intervals on the bottle/can?

[fantumfan2003]

Its used in removing rust from rebars in the construction industry. It does not need to be diluted with water. But they do mention cleaning with water before applying any coating or primer.

They mention aplying the liquid on the surface and leaving it on for 15 to 30 mins.

I have run it through the bore. Need to clean the bore with a thin "nada" to remove the residue, which I sure is there....

Manish

Without seeing the bore it is difficult to comment. Why don't you it in the rust remover you mentioned and then report back. It may need scrubbing out at some point.

BTW, how strong is this rust remover? If it is very potent, then it would be a good idea to wash out the bore and keep inspecting it at regular intervals. Does it mention anything about disolving the rust remover with water or anything about time intervals on the bottle/can?

[fantumfan2003]

Finally managed to dis-assemble the cylinder, spring and piston as below.





Can see some rust inside the cylinder and on part of the spring. But it is minor.

The rod you see threaded into the trigger assembly is immovable. Gripping the rod in a small vice and trying to unscrew it has been unsuccessful. I am now wondering if it can be removed at all.

There is a lot of muck on the piston and inside the cylinder. Whats the best way to clean it ? The piston seal has a crack and needs to go. Its either leather/rubber/nylon.....Its reddish brown in colour.

Need help......

Manish

[fantumfan2003]

I had a problem of a black residue in the pitting all over the gun so I tried hydrochloric acid (available in hardware shops) and it worked like charm. All the black residue is gone.

Safety first, sent the family away and worked in the bathroom.

I dunked parts in it for about 25 to 30 minutes and rinsed it with water immediately and dried it with a cloth. Except for the pitting she looks different now. More like how I want her to be. Also found who made her and where... What are my option of protecting her from future rust ? How much would bluing her cost me ? or should I just paint her or leave as it is....

The etching is very light, it says...

ARROW
AIR RIFLE
22 (possibly CAL, cant make out)
MADE IN JAPAN

She is a .22. The .177 H&N pellet I have slips out easily off the breech and muzzle. Its not even a loose fit.

Apart from this there are 3 digit alpha numerals on all the individual parts.

I can barely make out the barrel rifling. Do we have anything like a cleaning rod for a .177 or .22, The type more commonly used with .22LR RFs.

So this is a copy of the Diana made in Japan. Probably post WW2.Would love to get more info on it.

And she in is working condition. I dry fired it twice (yes that was wrong), could not resist the temptation, before stripping the cylinder assembly.

Pictures in a few hours....

Sorry for the long post.

Manish

[fantumfan2003]

Here is a pic of the parts after dunking them in HCl and rinsing with water.

[fantumfan2003]

Here is a pic of the piston cleaned and dis-assembled.



I am not able to make out which is the washer, is it the third from left and then what is second from left ?

The piston head is approx 22mm in diameter. Will I get the replacement for number three. Number two is in a pretty good condition.

Can I use any available PTFE or teflon washers ?

And here is something that worked very well for me to remove the rust.

Dip the parts in 50:50 bath of Hydrochloric acid and water for about thirty minutes. Immediately rinse it with water, wipe dry with a cloth and coat the part with a machine oil, this prevents rust formation immediately after the part is removed from the acid bath.

ACID IS TO BE TREATED AND HANDLED WITH EXTREME CAUTION. SEND THE FAMILY AWAY. WORK IN A BATHROOM WITH WINDOWS OPEN, WEAR RUBBER GLOVES, EYE PROTECTION AND HAVE PLENTY OF RUNNING TAP WATER AVAILABLE.

[fantumfan2003]

She is almost ready. Should get the cocking hinge pin tomorrow. Got it made with all help from Dr. Shirsat.
The O ring seal needs to go in place.

I was wondering if painting her would be a good idea to prevent further rusting etc.

There is too much pitting and doc has advised against bluing.

Please let me know if painting her is worth it. How about Automobile spray cans ? Any pre treatment primers needed ? Or should I just let her be ?

Will post pictures soon

Manish

[fantumfan2003]

She is ready. but I have a serious problem.

I test fired her with some Mastershot .22s and found that when fired the pellet was pushed only a few inches down the barrel ? I cant figure out what wrong ?

Is it air leak ? Put in a fiber washer from an automobile shop.

Weak spring ?

Bad barrel ? It was rusted and you can hardly make out the rifling

Or something else ?


Guru's please help me fix the problem ......

Thanks

Manish

[shahid]

Obviously Lacl of power or obstruction.

Barrel is clear so no obstruction.

Lack of power - leakage is most likely.

Weak spring - can you feel the pressure applied while cocking ( charging ) the gun ? You are the best judge.

Check the obstruction in piston. Open again and check whether new piston washer you fabricated has lost shape.

Also check for seals and washers. Strip down again and reassemble.