Comparison of Rust preventive

[Safarigent]

In the quest to find out the best anti rust formulation for my gun i came across this link.
Its quite interesting:
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/lid=1261 ... ventatives

Has anyone tried the boeing spray?
I am afraid of using wd40 as it might go into the ejectors and gum up. Is that a valid concern?
Also some one suggested, i dip everything except the furniture in petrol to remove the grease and then apply ballistol and put things back. Is that sound advice?
Regards

[skeetshot]

RUST

The very name sends shivers down the backs of all gun lovers.

Yet with the ferric content that all guns are presently made of, this is a reality that one needs to learn to tackle.

Fortunately for us, there are a host of new products available today that better help us combat this menace.

One old method I use to check the rust inhibition for any new snake oil that comes out is to use bright new thin nails and those rubber capped injection bottles used to contain fluids which doctors inject in patients.
Empty and clean out the contents, and half fill them with tap water. coat the nail with the latest oil/rust preventive and punch it through the rubber cap so that the nail is partially submerged in the water. It is important that the bottles be only half full as the air above them is required for their oxygen content. Leave the bottle to lie for a few days and check for rust. In some cases, the whole contents get red with rust formation.
This simple apparatus allows one to assess whatever rust inhibiters one can lay their hands on.

There are many manufacturers and exporters of Rust Preventive Oils and compounds in India, and a simple search on the net would help one locate a source near you.

Meanwhile standard commercial products such as Rustlick, Zorric, WD 40, Ballistol etc are also available having different capabilities of rust prevention. Balistol having the distinct advantage in that it doesn't hurt the wood of the gun.

It would also depend on where one is based. Thus gun owners living in the coastal belt have to take more precautions due to the salty nature of the environment and higher humidity levels than those living in the Northern plains where a drier environment is more prevalent.

In the final analysis, the key to maintaining one's weapons is REGULARITY. There is no such thing as cleaning and oiling one's weapon and "putting it away" That is why in Indian culture there are regular times when weapons are cleaned and oiled such as Holi and Dusserha, because the old wise men knew that regularity of cleaning was the best form of rust control they had.

So your ejectors wont gum up if you regularly clean and oil them, even with WD 40 (which at one time was considered the new WunderKleaner whe it came out, WD=Water Displacing, and still a good treatment when you return from shooting in the rain)

[xl_target]

I use Breakfree CLP (Cleans, Lubricates, Protects) to prevent rust on all my guns and have been using it for something like 30 years with no complaints. I'm sure that there are other products that do more or claim to do more but I don't plan to switch.

When I'm done shooting, I will clean the barrel with copper solvent, then a powder solvent and then run a CLP soaked patch through it. I clean surfaces exposed to powder with a powder solvent (Hoppe's #9) and then wipe all exterior and interior surfaces with CLP. I do the same thing with handguns or rifles.

If I'm going to shoot the firearm very soon after my previous session, I don't always clean the barrel but I wipe down and clean the exterior with a CLP moistened cloth before putting it away. I use light synthetic grease on the sliding parts (like the rails) on my handguns. As an aside; the US Military uses large amounts of CLP, not that I ape everything that the US Military does but it does work for them

Before I take the gun out to the range or for hunting, I will wipe all exterior surfaces off with a clean rag and run a dry patch through the barrel. One word of advice, don't store your Perrazi in it's travelling case. Store it standing vertically in a gun cabinet or safe. Use the case when transporting the gun though.

More about Breakfree CLP :

When the United States Military issued PD-48, a purchase description of properties for a single, multi-purpose product to maintain their weaponry, it became known as the "impossible specification" because of its severe requirements. The first product to meet the challenge - Break-Free CLP.

Break-Free's flagship product, CLP is a unique formulation of synthetic oils and individual proprietary ingredients which synergize in combination to do three important tasks simultaneously: Effectively Clean, Lubricate and Protect metal. Break-Free CLP is now recognized around the world as the standard by which maximum metal performance and protection is ensured.

Breakfree website

Some food for thought:
http://www.thegunzone.com/rust.html
http://www.frfrogspad.com/cleaners.htm

[hks2056]

I am using WD40 on my rifle, shotgun and revolver for past 20 years approximately here in Delhi. I never had any rust problem. The best thing about the WD40 is that it does not leave any gummy residue.It preserves and enhances the original finish of the weapons.By the way all sporting weapons such as bolt action rifle , revolver and double barrel shotguns are engineered to work WITHOUT ANY KIND OF LUBRICATION. The role of the lubricant is only rust prevention. I have out of curiousity and hearsay tried other reputed oils such as Ballistol, Remington etc. All of them leave gummy residue on surface after drying in three to four months. I find WD40 to be best and safe. After firing i use WD40 for cleaning purpose also.

[winnie_the_pooh]

bolt action rifle , revolver and double barrel shotguns are engineered to work WITHOUT ANY KIND OF LUBRICATION

No they are not.

[Safarigent]

Hi,
What i am doing is i run a clean cloth through both the barrels a couple of times before shooting.
Apply the perazzi gun grease on all the moving metal parts and contact points. A dab of beretta gun oil for the ejector. Check the stock and chokes are secure. Work the action a couple of times and then wipe off the gun to remove any excess oil/grease/ previously sprayed ballistol.
After shooting, i will spray ballistol on the metal and do the cleaning at home.
Once home, i clean the receiver with a toothbrush to reach all the nooks and crannies and then spray a bit of ballistol. To remove the grime. The forestock gets similar treatment. Moving to the barrels, i clean the chamber first. Then i use a bristle brush and a tornado brush to get all the gunk out of the barrels. At this point i use wd40 if i think i need some extra spray in the barrels. I dont spray it earlier because i dont want it sitting in the barrels while i am driving and risk it getting in touch with the forestock.
Run a pece of chindi till it comes out clean. Remove the chokes and use the choke cleaner. Use my toothbrush soaked with ballistol on the exterior of the chokes and on part of the barrel where the chokes lie.
After wiping the chokes clean i screw them back on after applying a thin film of the ballistol gungrease on both the barrel and choke threads.
Now i run a mop brush soaked in ballistol through through the barrels a Couple of times. Clean the ejectors with the toothbrush and also the rib. Spray some ballistol to get the dirt off. A cloth with ballistol goes between the barrels to make sure no spot is left out. Then a light wipe with my oil rag to wipe off excess. Put the forestock back on while spreading any excess ballistoll all over it, inside and outside. The stock gets a similar treatment.
When i had brought the gun, i had taken out the trigger and the action and sprayed it quite liberally with ballistol and used my cute little toothbrush lightly and then sprayed it with ballistol again to remove the gunk. Havent touched either since then. The top lever got a drop or two of beretta gun oil a while back and so did the safety.
Now i spray some wd 40 on the brushes and clean out as best as i can. Wipe off the rods etc with a chindi and pack them all off.
This is my routine and i need to know if i can improve it to take better care of my precious.
I mention brand names only because thats what i am using and i would like to know if what i am using is appropriate. I am in no way associated with any of the companies other than being a customer.
I dont have clp here in india. .
The gun is stored in the case as its being used quite often. I have put in a desssicant case which i brought from a member here. It supposedly takes care of a cubic foot space so moisture is not a worry.Dont put the parts in their cloth bags, store them just like that on top of the bags.
Ofcourse if i am going to be away for more than four to five days i would stand her up in the gun cabinet.
I am also worried about the approaching monsoons where the moisture content in the air will be quite high and i might be shooting in the rains also. Cant rule it so might as well be prepared for it.
I thank you all for your suggestions already made and in anticipation of more to come

[hks2056]

I am happy to note the methodical manner followed to keep the guns in good condition.I have never used any grease or oil for lubrication of my firearms.WD40 contains kerosene and fish oil with chemical protectives.It does provide adequate lubrication if at all it is required.On rare ocassions i have applied two drops of MOBIL Number 1 Synthetic oil to Hammer Pivot of my revolver after cocking it. Once lubricated thus it stays lubricated for two years.Best part of WD40 is that it protects the bluing the best. I write from my own experience.There may be other oils which are good or better. I prefer to stick to my tried and tested WD40. It does come in touch with wood furniture of the firearm however without any negative effect to the walnut of the stocks.

[winnie_the_pooh]

WD40 contains kerosene and fish oil with chemical protectives

http://www.wd40.com/about-us/myths-legends-fun-facts/

On rare ocassions i have applied two drops of MOBIL Number 1 Synthetic oil to Hammer Pivot of my revolver after cocking it.

revolver.......... are engineered to work WITHOUT ANY KIND OF LUBRICATION.

[skeetshot]

Hi,
What i am doing is i run a clean cloth through both the barrels a couple of times before shooting.
Apply the perazzi gun grease on all the moving metal parts and contact points. A dab of beretta gun oil for the ejector. Check the stock and chokes are secure. Work the action a couple of times and then wipe off the gun to remove any excess oil/grease/ previously sprayed ballistol.
After shooting, i will spray ballistol on the metal and do the cleaning at home.
Once home, i clean the receiver with a toothbrush to reach all the nooks and crannies and then spray a bit of ballistol. To remove the grime. The forestock gets similar treatment. Moving to the barrels, i clean the chamber first. Then i use a bristle brush and a tornado brush to get all the gunk out of the barrels. At this point i use wd40 if i think i need some extra spray in the barrels. I dont spray it earlier because i dont want it sitting in the barrels while i am driving and risk it getting in touch with the forestock.
Run a pece of chindi till it comes out clean. Remove the chokes and use the choke cleaner. Use my toothbrush soaked with ballistol on the exterior of the chokes and on part of the barrel where the chokes lie.
After wiping the chokes clean i screw them back on after applying a thin film of the ballistol gungrease on both the barrel and choke threads.
Now i run a mop brush soaked in ballistol through through the barrels a Couple of times. Clean the ejectors with the toothbrush and also the rib. Spray some ballistol to get the dirt off. A cloth with ballistol goes between the barrels to make sure no spot is left out. Then a light wipe with my oil rag to wipe off excess. Put the forestock back on while spreading any excess ballistoll all over it, inside and outside. The stock gets a similar treatment.
When i had brought the gun, i had taken out the trigger and the action and sprayed it quite liberally with ballistol and used my cute little toothbrush lightly and then sprayed it with ballistol again to remove the gunk. Havent touched either since then. The top lever got a drop or two of beretta gun oil a while back and so did the safety.
Now i spray some wd 40 on the brushes and clean out as best as i can. Wipe off the rods etc with a chindi and pack them all off.
This is my routine and i need to know if i can improve it to take better care of my precious.
I mention brand names only because thats what i am using and i would like to know if what i am using is appropriate. I am in no way associated with any of the companies other than being a customer.
I dont have clp here in india. .
The gun is stored in the case as its being used quite often. I have put in a desssicant case which i brought from a member here. It supposedly takes care of a cubic foot space so moisture is not a worry.Dont put the parts in their cloth bags, store them just like that on top of the bags.
Ofcourse if i am going to be away for more than four to five days i would stand her up in the gun cabinet.
I am also worried about the approaching monsoons where the moisture content in the air will be quite high and i might be shooting in the rains also. Cant rule it so might as well be prepared for it.
I thank you all for your suggestions already made and in anticipation of more to come

Your present procedure is very good, but you need to simplify things so that it would be easier and second nature for you to maintain.

Skeet shooter HAS to shoot in rain, and unlike in Trap/Double Trap there is no protection. Usually the referee calls off the round when the rain gets heavy, but dont count on it. When I was shooting a world cup in Sydney, it was pouring extremely heavily, but we were called to shoot.

Thus you have to plan for this and protect your gun accordingly. I carry a hair dryer for those times !!!

[Safarigent]

Hi ss,
May i ask what your routine is? Both when the gun is dry and when it is soaked.
Also the storage? Do you store it in the case or in a cabinet?
What products do you use?
I understand that you might not be willing to share some things so i thank you for your reply already received.
Although i have one more question, how would you use the hair dryer? Would you remove the stock and then dry off the action as well?
Regards

[winnie_the_pooh]

Safarigent,

Try this link.The tests are a bit more comprehensive and carried out over a longer period.

http://www.6mmbr.com/corrosiontest.html

[Safarigent]

Thanks.
I am thinking of eezox, then a vci bag then the bore socks should be all the protection i need.
Is more confusing, with so many choices the more you read.
I guess it all boils down to personal experience and what works for you in the end.

[MoA]

Plain old WD 40 used liberally has worked for me for years. YMMV.

[Corjack]

I have used G96 gun treatment for many years, as a rust treatment. Some firearms where designed to use a lot of lube, such as a 1911. If you shoot a freshly cleaned 1911, and oil does not get in your eyes, you have not oiled it enough. I use Breakfree as a lube on semi auto pistols, and rifles, and Prolix T Lube on the rails of Blaser rifles, and revolvers. It is a liquid that dries, so it does not collect dirt, and grit. My father has used WD40 for most of his life, and I honestly can not say it does not work well for him.

[TwoRivers]

bolt action rifle , revolver and double barrel shotguns are engineered to work WITHOUT ANY KIND OF LUBRICATION

No they are not.

Sure they are, Winnie. Just like car engines.