The 3rd place of visit in my itinerary was a private establishment, Japan Sword. They are located on Toranomon, Minato, quite close to Nihonbashi, a central business district. No where close to any of the touristy places. A family run establishment, they first did not take kindly to me. Dressed as I was in jeans and a t-shirt with a knapsack on my back, they probably thought I was fast talking guy lost in the area! When my son started pointing out various swords to me did they realise that I knew a wee bit of their history. The owner's son, God bless him for he spoke good English, then opened up to me and started explaining each and every piece in the showroom including all the tantos, tsubas, menuki, fuchi-kashira, kogai, kozuka etc. I suspect they have rather well heeled customers so I was not to be taken seriously. Only after I had expressed my desire to acquire a piece did they really accept me. On asking if any people from India visited them, he replied in the negative, except one case about 5-6 years ago wherein a gentleman purchased an article from him and had it shipped by sea! Anyway, most of their market is in the West, namely Continental Europe and North America. If one thought that the bureaucracy was omnipotent in India, Japan is no less. To export a sword, they require an Export Permit. This takes anywhere from 2 weeks to 2 months. Of course, their originals are prohibited from being exported. A new one is no problem. So are shinken, but collectors don't value them much.
Anyway, after about 1-1 1/2 hour of a lecture(from him) about the niceties of Japanese swords, I'm invited to a viewing gallery cum store, and oh boy, it's 3 floors of Alladdin's Cave! The 1st. floor was a collection of wakizashi, katana, daisho and tantos, including pieces from the Tokugawa clan bearing their crest on the scabbard (which are highly coveted), plus articles from the Kamakura, Muromachi and Edo periods. Prices, needless to say, can only be viewed in the stratosphere. The 2nd. floor is a workshop, where basic facilities for cleaning, minor repairs etc are carried out. I suspect this is where most of their deals are stuck, being a less formal environment. It also contains various tsuba, kogai and gold menuki. The 3rd. floor is a store house of Yoroi, kabuto, and even an entire ensemble for a horse! It took me a greater part of 2 hours to go through everything and with a restless son in tow I had no time to view each and every piece. Unfortunately, they don't like their stuff to be photographed so I'm helpless to provide visuals, but rest assured that their collection for sale equals that in the Tokyo National Museum.
Meanwhile, while I was discussing the possibility of acquisition of a blade, I asked if any craftsmen could be visited. The young gent said a man lived and worked nearby, so off we went. This elderly gentleman makes tsuba and menuki with gold scroll and laminate work. Again, they are not too keen to be photographed but I did purchase a tsuba from him.
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The bottom article is the tsuba in 'Tsurumaru' form, that is in the form of a crane with spread wings. This signifies long life and good fortune in Japanese culture. Although this is a semi completed form, I did purchase it from him. Ideally the craftsman would have used gold embellishment to complete it. Back at Japan Sword, the young owner presented me with a kozuka, a one sided utility knife. It's new, I don't know whats inscribed on it, but it's outright beautiful.
I am inclined to believe that people in the trade know much of the condition of arms in Japan better than their authorities. While at the Tokyo National Museum, I met a Professor of Fine Arts at the Tokyo University who gave me a long drawn out speil on the culture of the sword in Japanese history. On the other hand I met a Belgian gentleman who was a collector of swords, at the Royal Museum in Ueno (small place, not very many people know about it. No arms but superb art and artifacts) who had his pulse on the Japanese way and present culture. His insights were to the point and exact. More on that later.
What a treat for a lazy sunday morning. The million dollar question is did Katana buy a Katana 
